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Abstract: Islam across South Asia has many faces. One intriguing face is that of ritual and tradition, filled with color, rhythm, song, and even magic and the supernatural. The story is about Sufis, saints and sinners, some living, some dead, and the millions of people who flock to their shrines seeking offspring, wealth, health, power, and often riddance from evil spirits, demons and djinns.
Synopsis: This is a story of Thursdays. Each Thursday, all across South Asia, shrines are filled with millions of devotees who bring offerings of food, money, flowers and much else to some saint or holy person. The devotees come from every walk of life, including the rich and the destitute, professionals, businessmen, women, and a mix of cultures and ethnicities. Sometimes even religious boundaries are crossed and many non Muslims are part of the crowd. They all have two things in common. One that they are in need of something, and two that they devoutly believe that the saint of their choosing can deliver.
Ritual is a big part of the tradition of seeking blessing and making an offering. Respect is shown through a variety of gestures involving hands, lips, eyes, forehead, and bowing. The shrines, and the graves are washed and cleaned, and adorned with garlands and the air is kept fragrant with burning incense. The keepers of the shrines are constantly at hand to offer direction, instruction and are glad to receive and accept any offering on behalf of the saint.
The activities usually begin at afternoon prayers, as the devotees begin to trickle in. By sunset there is usually no room to move and the air is filled with light, color, and an aroma of incense, flowers and perspiration. At many shrines there is a qawwali session with songs of devotion being sung by a local or famous group. At some shrines, one Thursday of each month is kept aside for exorcisms, which usually take place after darkness has fallen. This is usually the busiest and most animated Thursday of the month. |